Thanks Ben these are really helpful tips. I suspect the temperature was more like 500 or 600 Celsius. Thanks everyone else who answered as well. I think I'm clear on this now. I'm planning on re-testing this weekend and will hopefully have better results this time On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 9:09 PM, Ben Brockert <wikkit@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: On Wed, Oct 16, 2013 at 6:38 PM, Graham Sortino <gnsortino@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Interesting thanks for that tip. however, if I do that won't I be left with > a thermocouple wire permanently dangling from the engine? Understood this is > the best option but is there a second best option that doesn't involve > permanently afixing the wire to my engine? Welding or brazing the thermocouple to the part is best, but mechanically attaching it should give a reasonable result. It will have some time lag and it may be a bit low, but most of the time thermocouple data is mostly useful for comparison between tests, rather than its absolute quantitative value. Holding the thermocouple on with a hose clamp works. Putting a bit of insulation between the clamp and the thermocouple will get it closer to the real temperature, at the cost of also increasing the part temperature. Adding some thermal paste and using a small thermocouple will improve the response rate. In your test, if the part was molten and white hot, it was at 2000C. Stainless melts at ~1500 C and is white hot around 1200 C. If it wasn't glowing at all, 400 C is a reasonable temperature for it. Ben