[AR] Re: Fw: Igniter questions

  • From: Rand Simberg <simberg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: arocket@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2013 08:51:43 -0700

Yes, it's beyond imagination that such a thing could have actually occurred...


On 10/28/2013 08:45 AM, Jonathan Goff wrote:
Thomas,

That's a dangerous one in case you get an igniter oxidizer leak, say due to debris getting into the igniter ox valve and preventing it from closing properly. Not saying that we learned that one the hard way at Masten, or melted any engines due to an igniter not actually shutting off because of such a failure...

~Jon


On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 9:22 AM, Thomas McNeill <thomas.mcneill@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:thomas.mcneill@xxxxxxxxx>> wrote:

    Instead of running a purge you can keep the fuel flowing through
    the igniter to keep it cool.

    Thomas



    On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 10:59 AM, Lloyd Droppers
    <lloyd.droppers@xxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:lloyd.droppers@xxxxxxxxxxxx>>
    wrote:

        Ben's got the answer there, but if your running a test stand
        two additions are

        -you need to think though the flow rate after main chamber
        ignition, i.e you will be probably be running the igniter for
        a second or two after main chamber ignition, so make sure you
        don't shift into some really hot O/F.  If you are on a test
        stand it is easier to make sure your igniter feed pressures
        are 50% over PC or greater and you should be fine, on a
        vehicle you don't always have that luxury.

        -Also, if you can, running a purge through the igniter after
        main chamber ignition at about the pressure as PC will save
        the igniter from torching in the case of leaks and some
        instability.  Probably not worth it on a vehicle, but for
        injector characterization tests it is very worth it.  Unless
        you really enjoy rebuilding igniters i guess.

        Lloyd


        On Sat, Oct 26, 2013 at 5:22 PM, Ben Brockert
        <wikkit@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:wikkit@xxxxxxxxx>> wrote:

            1. Doesn't matter. Igniters are often run heat sink mode,
            and heating
            goes up with higher pressures, so running at low pressures is
            advantageous for minimizing heating. At the same time you
            do want to
            run choked so that you can detect go/no go with a pressure
            transducer.
            That sets the reasonable minimum around 30psi, so for
            off-nominal
            propellant conditions a nominal operating pressure of
            60-100 psi is
            good. If tank pressure is lower than that then you take
            what you can
            get.

            2. If the igniter is plumed to main feed pressure, by
            nature you can't
            get chamber pressure to flow up the igniter lines because
            there has to
            be pressure drop across the rocket injector for the rocket
            to rocket.
            You can add check valves if you're really worried about
            it, but I've
            never bothered. If you hard start the engine or have severe
            instability the Pc can be higher than propellant pressure,
            but then
            you have other problems worse than igniter trouble.

            A much more realistic concern is making sure that all of the
            connections on the igniter are absolutely leak-free. Leaks
            will turn
            into (likely rapidly enlarging) hot gas leaks when the
            igniter is off
            and the engine is on.

            It's common to have 1/8" tubing feeding small igniters.
            Use stainless
            tubing, the weight difference with aluminum is
            inconsequential. Never
            use aluminum tubing smaller than 1/4", it can't survive
            even small
            fires when pressurized.

            Ben

            On Sat, Oct 26, 2013 at 5:57 PM, Graham Sortino
            <gnsortino@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:gnsortino@xxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
            > Apologies, in advance as I'm almost positive this
            question was already
            > answered but I can't seem to find the responses.
            >
            > Re-phrased:
            >
            > 1. When designing a (GOX/Ethanol) igniter should the
            chamber pressure be
            > higher or lower then the main engine pressure? Also, are
            there any rules for
            > choosing an injector pressure relative to the main
            engine pressure?
            > 2. If the igniter pressure should be lower than the
            chamber pressure then
            > how does one prevent propellants flowing back through
            the injector orifices?
            >
            > Thank you very much.
            > Graham
            >
            > On Thursday, May 19, 2011 10:16 AM, Joel Scotkin
            > <arocket@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
            <mailto:arocket@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
            > On 05/18/2011 10:45 PM, Robert Watzlavick wrote:
            >> I'm going to be working on an augmented spark igniter
            (ASI) to try and
            >> improve the starting of my 250 lb LOX/kerosene motor.
             I was wondering
            >> about the chamber pressure for the igniter - I would
            think it needs to
            >> be >= than the main chamber pressure to keep it from
            flowing back into
            >> the igniter.  Am I missing something?  I've noticed
            that some designs
            >> shut the igniter off after a few seconds and in that
            case, how do you
            >> keep from the gases from the main chamber from backing
            up through the
            >> igniter orifices and into the feed lines?  The few
            igniter pictures
            >> I've seen show small solenoid valves that typically
            aren't rated for
            >> enough pressure to handle the main propellant tank
            pressures.  My
            >> kerosene tank pressure is ~490 psi (large drop through
            cooling jacket)
            >> and the LOX tank pressure is ~340 psi.
            >>
            >
            >> Thanks in advance,
            >> -Bob
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